Browsing Tag

yoshiko tsukiori

Book Reviews Japanese Sewing Books in English Ladies Sewing Patterns

Book Review – Sweet Dress Book (Now in English)

August 27, 2013

Look what I found in my mailbox last week!

The very kind folks at Laurence King who sent me review copies of Stylish Dress Book and Feminine Wardrobe  sent me this book last week. A great mood-lifter for me given that I have been “bugged” by the flu bug for the past two weeks. The funniest thing is that I didn’t catch it, but everyone else at home took turns with it which meant lots of TLC had to be dished out, and lots of cooking and cleaning too.

Back to the book. This book was originally due for release in September on Amazon, but I just checked, and it’s already available for order !

This book contains patterns for 23 different outfits, based on variations of 6 simple patterns. I thought it meant less tracing, but the actual pattern pieces for each individual outfit is still different and will have to be traced out separately. Let’s have a look!

 This is the same top as the one on the cover. It has an interesting ribbon tie back detail.

 The same pattern as A but with modified sleeves and ruffle details. The front of the neck is also made with ruffles instead of pleats. It is a totally different blouse despite originating from the same pattern isn’t it?

 I really like this cape collar blouse which will be really lovely in a soft, slightly sheer and flowy fabric. Maybe Liberty. If only I can bear to splurge on it.

 Same pattern (II) as the cape collar blouse!

 Another blouse using pattern II. Lots of ruffly details on this one.

 Pattern III is more of a straight cut pattern design. The design above includes a button placket, and can be worn either front to back, or back to front.

The more common kimono tunic using pattern III.

Pattern IV is quite a simple flare pants pattern, but can be modified to produce a short playsuit or a long jumpsuit like this one!

This tie-neck camisole uses a raglan sleeve pattern (Pattern V) and is really pretty. I am thinking seriously of making this one but without the organza layer.

Here’s one outfit made with the same pattern but with sleeves.

I really had to say something about this one. I didn’t like it at first glance, but when looking at the how-to-make section, I realized it was a sheer georgette fabric (in black) paired with a floral fabric for a sweetheart bodice dress. The pattern looks pretty enough but I think the main problem lies with the high waistline. It looks too wide and should be taken in a little bit more? Or is it due to the print or the weight of the fabric? It looks a little frumpy here doesn’t it?

Another pretty blouse using Pattern VI. This fabric, I like 🙂

 Really cute outfit. The patterns for the entire dress + ribbon tie + petticoat with hem ruffle are included.

A very pretty bell-sleeve coat dress, also using pattern VI.

Now for some important information. The patterns in the book are meant for the following sizes. XS-L. Units are mainly in inches, with cm equivalents in brackets. 

 This book also includes 4 pages of Basic sewing techniques, with step by step photographs to guide you along.

Just a small excerpt from the sewing techniques section so that you can see what the instructions are like.

The instructions include

  • Marking up a pattern piece
  • Threefold and double fold hem
  • Making bias binding
  • Using bias binding to add piping
  • Using bias binding to create a facing-like finish

All the pattern how-to-makes look like this. Pretty standard, with instructions, cutting layout, main diagram with steps, and individual diagrams for each step. But some of the patterns, like the one below, has step by step photographs as part of the instructions.

A closeup look at one of the photographs.

 A sample sewing diagram.

There are 2 large size pattern sheets with a plastic envelope for storage. Really love how all the English translated books have this, I am always getting my Japanese ones mixed up because I just insert them between the pages and they tend to slide out easily.

 

A bonus item! Cupcakes recipe!


Title : Sweet Dress Book
Author :Yoshiko Tsukiori
ISBN : 978-1780671086
Publisher : Laurence King
Buy now from : Amazon

9 Comments
Book Reviews Japanese Sewing Books in English Ladies Sewing Patterns

Book Review – Happy Homemade : Sew Chic (in English)

August 14, 2013

I went away for the long weekend, had a good break but sadly missed the 20% Kinokuniya sale. Feeling a little blue about it so I decided to go yesterday anyway even though there wasn’t a sale going on. Bookshops are my little getaways if you know what I mean. 🙂 And guess what I found? Happy Homemade : Sew Chic – 20 Simple Everyday Designs by Yoshiko Tsukiori. In English. Not due for release on Amazon till Sept 24th! Want to have a look inside?

 As the book title suggests, there are 20 patterns inside. For sizes 6-16. Scroll down to the bottom of the page for detailed size chart measurements.

A quick glance at all the garments included in the book.

 Same box tunic, different look with the addition of a belt (below)

 A very simple jacket to make since there are no buttons or fasteners 🙂 Perfect for layering in spring and autumn.

Don’t you love the little translated passages attached to each picture. What’s “ping”?

This is the same outfit shown on the cover. So why did I show this picture again? Because I thought it might interest you to know that only the pants pattern is included. The blouse pattern, which I really like, is not included. 🙁

 When I saw this dress I didn’t quite like it, but I realized it was the choice of fabric. Bearing in mind that the original Japanese version was published in 2009, so this was probably styled 4 years ago. Nevertheless the dress pattern itself (a casual sundress) is a versatile pattern and can be easily updated by using a different fabric and and trims.

I love this tunic. It’s made using hemp fabric which I’ve never tried sewing with before but it looks rather comfortable and lightweight enough for layering.

Flower-child style? 🙂 Not a fan of layering with pants but the dress itself is pretty sweet.

 Sleeveless blouse with frill details.

 I live in berms and shorts most of the time. Gotta make this! Will be so pretty in linen 🙂

According to the book, there are 6 pages of “How-to” techniques that are taken from the book “Sewing Recipe:  Master Sewing Techniques as You Go”. I am guessing these were not included in the original Japanese version of the Sew Chic book.

I had to give this section special mention as it is really useful for all of you interested in starting out in Japanese Sewing Books. Especially those of you who are looking to own your first book, this section is invaluable. It’s also great for sewing beginners since they cover basic sewing techniques as well. The best part is, all the diagrams include both inches and cm, so everyone can use the diagrams and patterns with ease. No need for conversions. Here’s what’s included…

Basic Techniques :

  • Basic Tools (with pictures and descriptions)
  • Needles and Threads (about needle sizes, thread types and what they are used for, and a table of appropriate needles/threads to use for different fabrics)
  • Sewing Machine Tips (2 pages of photographs on basic techniques, gathering, sewing corners)
  • How to make paper pattern with Seam Allowance – include diagrams showing you how to use the paper patterns and add seam allowance. (I get this question a lot, and now there is a very good guide showing you exactly how to do it!)
  • How to straighten fabric
  • Pattern placement – key techniques for alignment, placement and cutting
  • Taking your measurements

How to make – a page with diagrams on how to make the following

  • Bias strips
  • V-neckline Facing
  • Facing
  • Binding
  • Pockets

Now that you have mastered all the basic techniques, let’s move on to the actual patterns. Each of the pattern how-to-make looks like this (see below)

I noticed that for simplicity’s sake, the respective quantities of fabric and materials for each size are omitted and there is only one set of quantity. This could have been done to prevent confusion over which measurements to use, as it is one of the features of Japanese sewing books that make the patterns look so complicated. Logically, this set of fabric quantity must be for the largest size listed (size 16).

Even though it is better to buy extra fabric in case of mistakes, there are times when you may need to know the actual fabric amounts. For example, you may already have a fabric you want to use but you don’t have quite as much as stated on the pattern. I would suggest you trace out the patterns first and lay it on your fabric to see if there is enough before rushing out to shop for more. This is because, in general, sewing patterns tend to space out the patterns quite a bit on their cutting layout diagrams, but in actual practice I try to lay my pattern pieces together as close as possible to prevent fabric wastage. From past experiences I usually do get quite a bit of fabric leftover.

Another instance where this might help is if you are shopping for expensive fabric, it might be wise to trace out your patterns first and lay it out on fabric of similar width to simulate the actual quantity you need so you don’t have to buy more than you actually need.

The only exception to this is when the fabric is printed and the prints need to be matched up or orientated in a specific direction, that is when you may need to consider pattern-repeat, positioning and hence you may actually need to buy a larger quantity of fabric than listed. But that’s another story.

All the “how-to-make ” pages include step by step diagrams, like the one above.

A sample of the cutting diagram – note the measurements are primarily in inches, and the number in the brackets are in centimetres.

2 sheets of patterns are included in a envelope stuck to the back cover. Easy to remove (no cutting or ugly glue marks!) and easy to store.

 Sizes included : 6-16. Best to measure before deciding which set of pattern to trace, instead of following your own clothing size. This is because different manufacturers, different pattern makers, use different sets of measurements.

Last but not least, a sample of the pattern – all the markings in english! The different pieces are marked out in different colors which makes it easy to differentiate.


Happy Homemade: Sew Chic: 20 Simple Everyday Designs
by Yoshiko Tsukiori

Check out my list of other English versions of Japanese Sewing Books here!

Next week I will review the other book I bought which is due for release in November – Sew Chic Kids. It’s for both boys and girls! Stay tuned!

16 Comments
Book Reviews Japanese Sewing Books in English Ladies Sewing Patterns

Book Review- Stylish Dress Book in English

June 11, 2013

Today’s book review is another Japanese Sewing Book translated to English. The title of the book is Stylish Dress Book – Simple smocks, Dresses and Tops. The author is Yoshiko Tsukiori who is also the author of many other sewing books like Happy Homemade: Sew Chic , Girls Style Book and the other Stylish Dress Book: Wear with Freedom that I reviewed some time ago.

As the name implies, the book contains patterns for Simple Smocks, Dresses and Tops. There are 26 patterns in all, from pattern A-Z. That is incredible value because if you take the current price on Amazon ($13.82) that is like 50 cents a pattern!

Here are some of the patterns that I like.


Front-Tuck Blouse 

 Linen Dress with Lace Trim and Petticoat

 Camisole with Lace Neck Trim

 Box Dress with Boat Neck
This dress gives off such a 70s vibe, and I love boat necks. I’ve not come across many boat neck patterns in my sewing books. This pattern will be useful for making a boat neck blouse.

Overblouse with Lace Detail

 Tunic blouse with Smocking.
There are smocking details below the buttons,  shoulder seams as well as on the back below the yoke. There are instructions in the how-to-make for actually hand-stitching the smocking! Tedious work, but so pretty when done.

Three-quarter sleeve dress with ruffled seam.
The photo doesn’t quite show it because of the black fabric but there is a continuous seam of ruffles across the yoke line and sleeves. Very pretty!

Embroidered Empire Bodice Mini Dress
With this pattern, you will learn how to sew a decorative lace edge (all around the neckline and bib in the picture), make flowers using ric-rac (book calls it wave-shaped trimming tape), and hand embroidery (straight stitch, lazy daisy stitch, outline stitch and french knot stitch) to create the patterns on the bodice.

This pattern is for the Ruffled Bolero only, and not the dress below it. It’s an interesting addition to any outfit if you are into ruffles.

Dress with Elastic Shirring.
Learn how to sew on the machine with elastic thread to create the shirring effect. Also learn how to use decorative blanket stitches (hand stitching) to jazz up the neck line and make your own drawstring from embroidery thread.

Very simple pattern and great for beginners, this shift dress is made interesting with contrasting raglan sleeves and a bold trim on the bodice.

This will be cute as a cropped jacket wouldn’t it?

The how-to-make section starts off with the size chart in both inches and cm. The original Japanese version included Japanese sizes 7,9,11 and 13 which is the same as XS – L in the above chart. Most of the garments are loose fitting though so do take that in consideration when deciding which size to make.

 The how-to-make page with the standard Materials, Instructions, Cutting Layout and Diagrams.

A close up of the cutting layout, like the previous book from the same publisher, with measurements in both inches and cm.

A close up of the diagrams in the step by step process. Inches and cm included with every measurement on the diagrams as well.

The book comes with two large sheets of full-scale pattern pieces. List of garments and the number of pattern pieces for each are listed on the cover. The patterns are kept in a plastic pocket on the back cover, which is pretty handy.

Some of you asked about the quality of the pattern sheets. The paper quality is pretty good. A little lighter weight than copier paper, but not flimsy at all like tracing paper types you get with some patterns. I didn’t know how to show the paper quality through photos, so I placed one layer of it over the book and you can kind of see through it. It’s not very thick but definitely sturdy enough for repeated use and not easily torn.

What I like about this book, other than the fact that there are 26 patterns to choose from, is that despite having very simple shapes, there are alot of interesting embellishments and detailing that make each garment unique. With detailed diagrams showing you how to create them, it is not difficult to learn and you can even apply the techniques in other garments. You also get to work with many different types of fabrics. From linen to lace, voile, wool gauze, rayon wool etc.

The format is pretty standard in all the translated books so far, no step by step photographs but there are certain patterns that are easy for beginners and you can work your way to more difficult patterns since there are so many to choose from.

Title : Stylish Dress Book – Simple Smocks, Dresses and Tops
ISBN : 978-1780671079
Publisher : Laurence King

16 Comments