Translations and Help with Patterns

Today’s translation request is from this book

For No. 2 Round collar Dress (which is also the dress featured on the cover)

I have translated the written instructions for Megan, instead of overlaying the text on the images because this pattern was 3 pages long and the words are tiny!

Here goes!

Completed dimensions (from left S/M/L sizes)
Length – 93.5 / 94.5 / 95.5cm
Back neck to cuff (along shoulder and down arm) length – 57.5/58.5/60cm

Materials *from left S/M/L sizes
Outer fabric
– p.10 C&S soft linen (navy purple)
– p.11 C&S half linen
– p.46 Linen Flannel

Fusible interfacing – 50x30cm
Stay tape – 1.5cm wide 34cm
Button – 1.1cm diameter x 3

Cutting layout
* Seam allowance is 1cm unless specified
* Cut bias according to dimensions in diagram
* dark grey shaded areas indicate area where stay tape should be applied
* light grey shaded areas indicate area where fusible interfacing should be applied

How to make
1. Attach back facing
1.1 Apply fusible interfacing to back facing
1.2 Fold in the outer curve of the seam allowance, and stitch.
(note on diagram – for curved portion, use a basting stitch to help pull it to a circular shape)
1.3 Align back bodice and back facing pieces, right sides facing, sew along the opening
(notes on diagram – use a narrow stitch length)

2. Sewing the shoulder seams
2.1 Zig-zag/serge the shoulder seams of each piece separately
2.2 With right sides facing, sew the front and back pieces together at the shoulder seam
2.3 Open up the seam allowance (iron)

3. Making the collar
3.1 Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the outer collar, then, with right sides facing sew the collar pieces together along the outer circumference (except the neckline). Repeat for the other collar piece.
3.2 Trim the seam allowance to 0.5
3.3 Clip curves in the seam allowance, fold in the seam allowance, then turn right side out.

4. Attaching the collar
4.1 Make the bias (according to diagram)
4.2 Align the collar to the neckline, with the collar sandwiched between the back facing and bodice. baste in place
4.3 Align the creased line of the bias to the finished neckline, sew with a 1cm allowance from the neckline.
4.4 Cut the back opening (refer the diagram)
4.5 Trim the seam allowance of the neckline down to 0.6cm , clip curves in the seam allowance.
4.6 Turn the back facing right side out, and stitch down the facing piece (according to the diagram)
4.7 Foldover the bias to the wrong side of the garment (thereby enclosing the neckline) and stitch down (refer to diagram)

5. Attaching the side pockets
5.1 Apply stay tape to the wrong side of the front bodice pocket, zig-zag/serge along the seam allowance from sleeve down to the side (refer to point 1 on diagram step 6)
5.2 Zig-zag/serge the side seam allowance of the pocket piece
5.3 Attach the pocket pieces to the front and back bodice respectively (note the different seam allowances on the diagram). The front pocket should be sewn 0.3cm away from the finished line (side seam)
5.4 Flip the pockets to the right side and iron.

6. Sewing the underarm, side and around the pocket circumference
6.1 Sew the underarm – side seam, ending at the pocket opening, avoid sewing over the pocket pieces.
6.2 Open up the seam allowance (iron)
6.3 Top stitch the pocket opening from the right side (front only)
6.4 Sew around the circumference of the pocket fabric twice, then zig-zag/serge both seam allowances of the pocket pieces together.
6.5 For the back pocket, sew it down to the back seam allowance only (and not through the main fabric) to keep in place.
6.6 Sew the side seam allowances of the pocket fabric with a catch stitch (herringbone stitch) refer to pg 75 step 2 point 6
6.7 Lay the pocket towards the front bodice and stitch 2 or 3 times on the top and bottom edge of the pocket

7. Sewing the cuffs
7.1 Sew the cuff opening with a double fold hem
7.2 Sew a tuck 2cm from the shoulder (upper arm) seam
7.3 whip stitch to close the opening of the tuck

8. Finish the hem with a double fold hem

9. Attach the button to the back opening, make the loop (refer to p.83)

buy now from cdjapan.co.jp (affiliate link)

Title : Check & Stripe Handmade Simple Style
CHECK & STRIPE てづくりのシンプル スタイル
ISBN : 978-4-418-14425-9
Publisher : 世界文化社

Today’s translation request is from Brandi for Dress K from the book Atelier to nani IRO’s Sewing Closet.

I actually made the same in a blouse version, which is just a shorter version. So I’m pretty familiar with it.

This was the part of the pattern instructions that she needed help with. Basically, you just have to sew the tucks according to the marking, then iron the tucks so that they are all in the direction of the side of the garment. The red circle shows what it should look like from the front.

I hope this helps those of you who are working on this top/dress. Let me know below if you have any questions!

Today’s translation request is for Amy, who needed help with the Japanese sewing pattern for the Cap sleeve blouse from this book by Yoshiko Tsukiori. It is still one of my favorite reference books for all the detailed pictures of sewing techniques. Read my full book review here. Or buy it from cdJapan via the link below (aff link)

The following translation is for the Cap sleeve blouse on page 10-11.

Materials
110cm wide Polka dot print linen :
– for sizes 7-11 : 1.6m
– for sizes 13,15 : 1.8m
Interfacing (based on 90cm width) : 30cm

In the table of Completed dimensions, the Japanese terms in the table are as follows

Bust
Waist
Hip
Length

Sewing preparation

★Attach interfacing to front and back facing pieces
★On the bottom edge of the facing pieces, Zig zag/overlock the raw edges.

Sewing procedure

1. On the top front bodice piece, make gathers, and sew together to the bottom front bodice piece. (refer to page 24).  Zig zag/overlock the seam allowance of both pieces that have been sewn together.
2. Sew the shoulder seams of the front and back bodice as well as the front and back facing pieces (refer to page 32). Press the seams open.
3. On the sleeve opening edge, make a double fold hem. Gather the shoulder edge of the sleeve and attach to the bodice.
4. Sew around the neckline of the facing to the bodice. Turn the garment right side out and topstitch around the neckline (refer to page 32)
5. Sew the left armhole between the bodice and facing pieces. Turn right side out (refer to page 33)
6. Sew the right armhole between the bodice and facing pieces, turn right side out (refer to pg 34)
7. Sew the side seams of the facing and the bodice all the way through to the hem. (refer to pg 34). Zig zag/serge both layers of seam allowances together.
8. Finish the bottom edge with a double fold hem (see page 59)
9. Top stitch around the armholes.

Hope this helps Amy! Please share a photo of your finished blouse with us when you are done!