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Magazine Review – Female Autumn 2013

September 30, 2013

As promised, a review of the latest Female magazine – Autumn 2013.

I must say we really get it at a good price here. The listed price in Japanese Yen is 840, based on the current exchange rate, that is about SGD10.78, and with my member’s discount (Kinokuniya) I get it at SGD10.17! Even if you are not a member the price is not far off from the original listed price. Price aside, this is one of the magazines that I really use quite a bit. So it’s no wonder I have to buy every issue that comes along.

Now let’s take a look at what’s included in this issue!

 Part of the Autumn Hit Trend  Pick up feature, where they feature 7 looks that are “in” this season.
Above : A very uniquely constructed cardigan + Cocoon dress.

Left : Pullover (using straight line patterns) + Right : Light coat (requires the use of the standard Bunka sloper – instructions provided on construction of sloper)

Left : Shirt dress with gathered skirt (patterns provided) + Right : Frill Blouse (using Bunka sloper)

 Left : Flare mini skirt + Right : Frill dress (both patterns provided)
I love the dress on the right! Even got my patterns traced but now trying to find the right fabric.

 Remember this dress that I mentioned in the fabric post last week?

 Some interesting coat patterns included in this issue with ideas on co-ordination. The coat above requires the use of a Bunka sloper.

A casual looking Gown Coat pattern – patterns included, as well as step by step pictures. Yay!

 Some straight line sewing projects are included. I like the these two because of the front tuck details and the sleeves. They are actually similar except for length and the pockets on the green dress.


More sweet dresses with elastic waistband. Left dress is sleeveless, Right with frill sleeves.

 Something new this issue : Lingerie and Room wear feature

 Babydoll camisole & short pants set.

 Comfy clothes to wear while lounging at home.

Size chart for your reference.

(Top row of measurements for both tables – Bust / Waist / Hip / Back length(nape to waist) / Waist – hip/ Body Rise / Crutch Depth Line to floor / Sleeve length / Wrist Circumference / Height )

There are lots of instructions included with the magazine, many involve the construction of the Bunka sloper, which is rather wordy and being entirely in Japanese, so it may not be very useful for your construction purpose unless you are familiar with the construction of a sloper and measurements are all you require. There are apparently English translated versions of the Bunka Textbooks which you may purchase from Amazon. I have not personally flipped through these books so I don’t dare to recommend them here. But when I do and if I find it useful, I will be sure to let you know.

Other than instructions for the sloper, there are also useful pages like this : “How to use the patterns” page. There are also pages on basic sewing techniques, from handstitching, applying interfacing, how to sew on hook and eyes, snap buttons etc.

There are three featured patterns with detailed step by step photos (an example was seen earlier in the gown coat pattern). The majority of the rest are in colored diagrams like this one.

A close up of one of the diagrams.

For the rest of the projects that have neither photographs or colored diagrams, they are included at the back of the book in black and white diagrams. These are usually pretty easy pieces like standard pants and skirts so I guess no detailed explanation necessary.

I noticed that there have been people selling scanned copies of sewing books and magazines online , but these are clearly not authorized e-books by the publisher. Then there are also people who offer these downloads for free, but without the pattern sheets, what use are the sewing books/magazines? ;P Well, maybe you can manage to use just the straight line sewing patterns since these do not require patterns, but for the rest of the garments, you really need these pattern sheets.

I will be scouting around online for legitimate sources where you can buy these magazines and putting them up in a list on the blog. Those of you who buy them regularly, do share your sources as well and I will include them in my list. Remember to let me know which country these online shops are based as it will make a difference to the shipping cost. Thanks in advance for sharing!  🙂 See you guys on Thursday!

Bags or Zakka Sewing Patterns Book Reviews Japanese Sewing Magazines

Magazine Review – Cotton Friend Autumn 2013

September 24, 2013

Is it Autumn already?

 I bought two magazines last week. Cotton Friend Autumn (above) and Female (which will be reviewed next week!)

Index page showing all the included projects (part 1)

 Index page part 2! As usual, other than clothes, lots of small goods, bags and accessories included.

Let’s have a look!

 This pattern is for a robe coat. The coat is similar to the construction of a bath robe (overlapping front panels) but in linen and includes a drawstring ribbon tie.

 A long shirt dress, check out the suggested co-ordinating look on the bottom right. Love it with the sweater and the boots.

There is an entire section devoted to 1 pattern that can produce 6 different variations from a single pattern – dress/tunic/blouse.  I’m not a fan of the first look (above) but there are some other variations that look pretty wearable.

Same pattern in a tunic length, and with different details such as shorter folded sleeves and a ribbon tie around the waist. Looks much better doesn’t it?

There is also a straight line sewing special. I once reviewed a book on straight line sewing. Straight line sewing actually doesn’t just mean sewing in straight lines, but that the patterns are constructed out of simple straight line shapes, so… no tracing!

 Some of the pieces you can make from straight line sewing.

A tunic (in gorgeous fabric!)

A very simple but sweet skirt thanks to the ribbon tie and jacquard fabric.

 Gathered pockets cardigan. You can’t see it from here, but the bottom front corners of the cardigan are actually flipped back and sewn with the side seams to make pockets. Ingenious idea!

Some very useful patterns –  leggings and lounge pants (title says free pants? Maybe it means free-size pants)

 And these next two pages are too cute. Pajamas for the entire family!

 I see Cotton Friend is starting to notice that Men need their sewing love too. Last edition, we saw a jinbei pattern for Men remember?
Sizes included : S,M,L for Mens and Ladies, 100,120,140 for Kids. 

 Some interesting fabric finds and projects made from them. The Japanese love the Moomins, there are lots of Moomin merchandise to be found in Japanese zakka shops. This fabric on the skirt is too cute! Will my kids let me wear it?

 Another very interesting garment for both Mama and Girls. It’s some kind of drapey cardigan constructed using rectangles!

 New fabric “veronica” being introduced on a padded vest with hood. The fabric is a quilted corduroy. (コル天)

 There is always a Babylock serger/overlocker sponsored special in every edition of Cotton Friend, and in this issue they show you how to make a hooded parker which looks super comfy and cosy.
In Kids sizes, 100,120,140 and Adult sizes S,M and L.

With step by step pictures of course.

 

And now for accessories. I recently made a canvas bag for my shopping trips, and while shopping for fabrics, I realized it was not easy to find nice canvas, especially those that look like these weathered canvas fabrics. Apparently these undergo some kind of Bio Wash treatment to give it the aged look. The ones I can get here are all either really rough and rugged, or a little plasticky due to the coating on the fabrics, and definitely not in these nice colors.

More accessories!

A hat template for making your own hats! Sounds kind of fancy, since you can easily trace these patterns out eh?

Make some miniature handbags

Bedroom slippers

 More bags!

 Frilly aprons.

Now a quick word about the how-to-make.

The sizes included in this magazine.
(Top row of measurements for both tables – Bust / Waist / Hip / Back length(nape to waist) / Sleeve length / Body Rise / Crutch Depth Line to floor / Height )

With the exception of special features which include step by step photographs, the rest of the how-to-makes include colored diagrams such as the one below. The colors and fabric shading really helps in the understanding of the process. I personally find Cotton Friend the most user friendly in terms of instructions.

Actual size pattern sheets for use with the projects.

Coming up on Thursday, I will be showing you some of the new fabrics featured in the Autumn magazines. See you then!

 

Book Reviews Japanese Sewing Magazines Ladies Sewing Patterns

Magazine Review – Female Summer 2013

July 22, 2013

Another Summer magazine and one of my staples every season. It’s the Female magazine Summer edition 2013.

What I love about sewing magazines is that there is always a much larger number of projects compared to a sewing book, but do note that not ALL the actual size patterns are included in this one. Some of them require the use and modification of a basic sloper block. For those of you who are not familiar with drafting your own patterns, there are 2 large actual size pattern sheets included for some of the projects. Sizes included : S,M,L and LL.

Here are some of the projects I like!

Peplum & Ruffle Dress

 I glanced through the magazine at the bookshop and I decided that I really like these three different looks, but did not notice the fine print – these need to be made from a basic sloper pattern. Meaning that no actual size pattern is included.

 Pretty puff sleeve dress with Lace fabric.

 Summer tanks in a cheery yellow floral print with scalloped edges. Love the fabric, these are usually more pricey due to the finished edges, but it really does give it a professionally finished look doesn’t it?

 I really like this shift, as it reminds me of a dress I wore too much back in my uni days. I want to make this one!

 The shape and style of this dress is very pretty, but I think the size is too big for the model, or the model is too tiny.

Another  dress I am determined to make. In fact I’ve already traced and cut out the patterns for this one!  They even teach you how to co-ordinate for different occasions.

Is this the latest trend or something? Loud Prints + Baggy pants?

 Just had to share a close up. 🙂 I’m not making one of these. But I have actually seen people wear these pants in Japan. Loud floral prints, but thankfully not as baggy as these.

Nice basic sleeveless blouse design, which unfortunately calls for the use of a sloper.

Other than clothes,there are some pretty bag patterns too.

A 3 way clutch/sling bag/tote.

The Summer staple for ladies – the yukata. The one missing pattern in Cotton Friend this season.

Ok here’s how to tell if the pattern is included. Under the description of each garment, There will be this line highlighted by an asterisk. If you see the words within the note “実物大型紙” (actual size large pattern sheet) then you know the pattern can be found on the pattern sheet.

If you see this instead ”この作品はじか裁ちで作れます” – it means you have to cut out your patterns (but these usually mean constructing simple shapes and curves on the fabric)

For patterns using slopers, you will see the words “この作品は文化式製図”  which literally means “This project uses the Bunka style construction diagram“.

There are detailed diagrams to show you how to construct the basic sloper from which you make your modifications.

For those of you who fear drafting patterns, fret not. There are still many projects with actual size patterns, and some of them include step by step photographs.

There are also some projects that come with colored diagrams. which I feel is very helpful when identifying the right and wrong sides of fabric.

For the rest of the projects, here is an example of the how-to-make page. This happens to be one of the projects included in the pattern sheets, but the detailed measurements are included on the diagrams. Which makes it look kind of scary until you realize you can just ignore the complicated diagrams since the patterns are included.  It will be useful for those of you wanting to make your own patterns using your own custom measurements.

A close up of the step by step diagrams.

Here are the pattern sheets included.

There is also a small magazine insert, highlighting the new brands and trends in Japanese fashion this season.

Next week I am hoping to release a new pattern, so I’m going to have to work hard on it all week. Wish me luck!

 

Bags or Zakka Sewing Patterns Book Reviews Japanese Sewing Magazines Ladies Sewing Patterns

Magazine Review – Cotton Friend Summer 2013

July 15, 2013

Time for some Summer sewing magazine reviews! Let’s have a look at Cotton Friend Summer edition 2013. Vol 47.

Words in bold  – “Summer Sewing Plan”

Lots of projects to make! From clothes to bags and accessories.

A drapey linen-knit cardigan made up of trapeziums and rectangles.

Caftan

Gathered Dress

Tiered skirt

 Summer Tops

 Things to make with border print knits (horizontal stripes)

Wrap dress in different variations

 There are a couple of Mama + girl sets. Like these culottes.

Matching Aprons

As usual, summer editions always come with yukata or jinbei patterns. This time round, Men sizes S,M,L are included! The kids jinbei are also included (80, 100, 120). But no ladies yukata though, I guess it is too common in most other Summer magazines so it was not included. If you need one, there is a pattern available in the summer edition of Female magazine which I will be reviewing next week.

Now that you have made all the clothes, there is a section that shows you how to mix and match the garments made in this issue, for 14 days. In other words, 14 different looks.

Other than clothes, there are also some accessories patterns included, such as this cap in both kids and adult sizes,

Summer-y Tote Bags.

 More bags – that’s a Ness home fabric!

 Insulated lunch bags.

One of the reasons why I love Cotton Friend is because they don’t just cover clothes and hats and bags, but also you get to discover new crafty stuff. Did you know you can buy an umbrella pattern, and even the bare umbrella metal frame to make your own customized umbrella?

More craft tools and ideas on how to use them.

This issue even includes origami instructions for making a Kumamon – the mascot for Kumamoto prefecture.

Back to the sewing bits. Like all magazines, there will be a few featured projects where there will be detailed step by step pictures, like the ones below.

As for the rest, there will be diagrams like this one. Not all the diagrams are colored nicely like this though, the more straightforward projects that are included at the back of the magazine usually come in black and white diagrams.

There are two sets of actual size pattern sheets included with this issue.

And that’s it! I love Summer issues because there are alot of wearable clothes for our climate over here. Next week I will be showing you what’s inside the Summer edition of Female magazine. Stay tuned!

 

Book Reviews Japanese Sewing Magazines Kids Sewing Patterns

Cucito Spring 2013

April 22, 2013

Finally got my hands on this. In Singapore’s Kinokuniya, the magazines come from two sources. One is directly imported from Japan, and the other is through a magazine supplier in Hong Kong. I don’t know how it works because both copies are printed in Japan and similar in quality, but the direct import which arrives at the bookshop much earlier, is double the price of the one from the magazine supplier. Maybe one is flown in and the other takes a ship. The official publication date was 28th February, and I only found this magazine in the bookstore slightly more than a week ago which means it is more than a month of waiting. The price difference was significant enough to make me wait, so here it is at last 🙂

The magazine starts off with a series of co-ordinates for both boys and girls. There are 23 projects in all covered in the co-ordinates section. Like this twirly knit tunic with giant collars.

It has very pointy sides and large buttons on the cuff. Very interesting shape 🙂

 Pattern for all the co-ordinates you see in the pictures are included. Each of the co-ordinate item is given a number,

so that you can combine the co-ordinates in different ways to give you a variety of different looking outfits.

 Just follow the numbers to achieve the same look!

 This looks like a one-piece dress,

but it’s actually a blouse + skirt made using the same fabric.

Clever isn’t it? You can then use the co-ordinates separately in other outfits.

 Some stylish looks for the boys too…

 Check out the baggy pants! I hear Ice Ice Baby in my head when I see pants like this 😛

 Next up, a section on matching Mama + kids outfits. I love that fabric on the skirts! Very Marimekko but not quite. I’ll see if I can track it down.

The skirts project come with step by step photographs.

Complete the matching outfits with matching bags. Patterns are  provided for the bags as well.

A very cute matching set. A little too balloon-y on the Mum but so adorable on the girl!

 Matching bottoms for Mama, girl and boy. Not quite the same pattern for each but co-ordinated in terms of fabric choice. A great way to have a matching outfit with your kids without looking identical.

A regular feature on Cucito, sewing projects for school goods.

 Raincoats are perfect for school excursions!

 This cute little waist pouch is a great idea for turning fabric scraps into something pretty and practical. Great for kids to carry their favorite collections around with them at all times, but keeping their hands free for more important things like climbing 😛

Some of the projects in the school goods section come with colored diagrams like this.

Hair accessories for the girls. This section is actually to promote a new series of products called Laco Lab where the co-ordinating fabrics and lace is ready cut for you in the right lengths to make the hair accessories. But the dimensions and how-to-make are provided in the instructions, so you can make them with your own supplies even if you can’t buy the same kits.

 Combination of lace + crochet ribbons.

Now, some sewing for the little ones… Cucito is a sewing magazine for kids, so baby patterns are included as well.

 Everything looks cute in miniature sizes doesn’t it?

Super cute pants with a sewn on apron and a ribbon tie at the back. Too cute!

 A bib with shoulder straps as well. I’m hope it helps to keep the bibs on for slightly longer. What caught my eye is actually the cute giraffe print!

Now for some accessories. What’s trending in the fashion world for girls?

 Fake collars! Jazz up a plain t-shirt immediately with a fake collar.

 A very sweet combination of lace and embroidery.

A Skirts special!

For those dress-up days.

Ruffly skirts. Love the fabric combinations on these.

 Remember this fabric from the fabric post two weeks ago? Here’s the picture of the skirt on the little model. Awww…..

Flare skirt with frills details on the hem.

 Step by step photos are included for the ruffle skirt pattern.

 For the rest of the projects, instructions are given in diagrams.

 Patterns are included at the back. The pictures of the project on each side of the pattern paper is indicated in pictures, which makes it a lot easier to find!

Sizes included in this magazine :
Babies : 70cm-90cm
Kids : 90,100,110,120/130 (some projects include up to 130, some only include up to 120)
Mama : S,M,L

Next issue is due 28th of May. We probably won’t see it here till June, but the Summer issues usually contain a lot of useful projects for me because of our hot weather over here. So I’m definitely getting that one.

Also, there will be a Spring magazine giveaway coming up soon, look out for the announcement in the next few days! 🙂