Help with Patterns – Basic Black dress b

October 16, 2014

Tina emailed me asking for help in figuring out the dimensions for making the tiers for this dress.

Dress b from Basic Black.

I don’t blame you Tina, it took me a while to figure it out. The answer laid in two tiny circular symbols… 😛 Yup, two tiny circles. Couldn’t they have used a star or a triangle, or something that doesn’t look like part of the diagram????
Anyway, there are two different symbols for the front and back bodice. So first of all, you have to cut out the front and back bodice patterns and measure their width across the hem line accordingly. The front bodice measurement will be the circle outline, and the solid circle for the back bodice. I’ve done the calculations example for the front bodice.

I measured 8.8″ on the front, so taking this measurement, you will be able to add on the numbers provided for the different tiers, to find out the width to cut for each tier. I’ve done 1st and 2nd Tier as an example. (I know I’m mixing fractions with decimals, but that’s because my inch ruler measures in tenths and not eighths 🙂 no worries, everything comes out in decimals on a calculator)

So, from the above diagram, we have determined that the width of the first tier should be 8.8″+ 7/8″ = 9.675″

Of course, when you cut the fabric, it has to be on fold, measure out 9.675″, and then add on 3/8″ to one side for seam allowance.
For the height of the tiers, it seems to be standardized at 4 3/4″ (or 4.75″) for all sizes. You can vary the height of the tiers without affecting the patterns, especially if you are taller and want the dress to be longer.

The following is the example calculation for marking the positions of the tucks for the first tier (size XS). For the rest of the tiers, just adjust the markings accordingly, based on each tier’s width, and dividing that up into 5 equal parts.